Well, after scoring some clean 2-3' NE groundswell in my neck of the woods earlier this week for our "Queens Birthday" (sorry state-side crew, but there are advantages to living in a constitutional monarchy!) long-weekend - I had to do the early commuting thing for some meetings at work and missed some great sessions for the past few days.
Most of my local waves are fickle beach-breaks and will only be perfect for a few days ... but it seems the banks have been holding up really well in 3-4' offshores all week - spewing!!!
There are of course benefits to missing the 'early' ... in my case feeding my 1 year old son porridge (its winter here). It must give him a real energy boost cause he is only 11 months and already walking ... we think he is sick of chasing his older sisters on his knees (he better get used to it).
Talking of my older girls ... what a couple of little gremmies ... the 3 year old loves to ride on the front of my board and doesn't mind the odd 1' wipeout ... the six year old is a little more tentative ... she will get there. More on teaching my kids to surf in future posts.
So when I am not surfing I have to keep stoked and watching a couple of the new longboard flicks are classic way to stay amped! I was just watching the new "Glass Love" ... what a film ... so cool (I think its touring Cali at the moment). Nice to see people riding logs, fishes, bonzers and regular shorties: variety is the spice of life.
Anyhow, I need to go to bed ... the early beckons ... looks like a nice long-period E Swell and offshore ... I will dream of some smooth walls and the occasional little pocket to dip into :-) Will let you know how it goes.
Be nice and share out there. C.